The sun beats down on the Judean desert and punishes anyone who wanders here unprepared. Poisonous snakes, hyenas, wolves, and leopards prowl the area at night. The Judean wilderness is unforgiving. And yet, in the middle of it, the rugged cliffs and barren rocks open into a lush oasis with plunging waterfalls. Welcome to Ein Gedi, BABAGANEWZ! For more than 5,000 years, Ein Gedi has attracted individuals seeking a safe place to hide. It also has been a home to communities looking for a far-away retreat where friendship and companionship could flourish. It's not a desert where you see dunes in all directions, but it's a place that can swallow you up: a place where you can completely disappear into another world.

The most famous person to hide out in the wilderness of Ein Gedi was David, the young shepherd who became the king of Israel nearly 3,000 years ago. The account of how he escaped from King Saul into the hills of Ein Gedi is told in the First Book of Samuel, chapters 23 and 24. It's a tale of jealousy, palace intrigue, and undying friendship.

We hear the story from Noam Zion, a bible scholar. He explains that after David slew Goliath, the boy became more popular than the King. Infected by jealousy, Saul went mad from constant worry that the young hero would steal the throne from him, or that he would seize it later from Jonathan, the King's son and heir. "But surprisingly," Noam smiles, "Jonathan was willing to step aside and let David become king." In a symbolic gesture, Jonathan handed David his sword, bow, and belt. The act brought them together in a special way, and they began a relationship that somehow bridged their differences. "One was the son of royalty," Noam says, "and one the son of the countryside.

Remarkably, the son of royalty was ready to give up his own interests for the sake of his friend."

When King Saul realized that his son was willing to hand the crown to David, he was outraged. He screamed at Jonathan that he should be ashamed of himself, because "as long as the son of Jesse [David] lives on earth, neither you nor your kingship will be secure." In a final outburst of jealous hatred, Saul ordered David's death. Jonathan warned his friend of the danger, and David fled to the wilderness of Ein Gedi. Meanwhile, Saul gathered 3,000 soldiers to track him down.

As we sit at Ein Gedi, along the western shore of the Dead Sea, it's as if we can hear the echoes of David and Saul's final confrontation. It's fun to imagine that the story Noam is telling us might have happened only a few yards from here. "Saul entered the cave where David and his troops were hiding," describes Noam. "While the King's back was turned, David had the perfect opportunity to kill him, but he didn't. Instead, he cut a corner of Saul's royal garment, thereby proving to the King that he was not his enemy. Saul cried when he realized how wrong he had been about David's motives, and, temporarily, he overcame his jealousy."

We cheer the happy ending and jump up. The cool spray of the waterfall calls us to play. There is something inviting about this place. Its stunning beauty, set like a pearl in the harsh surroundings of the desert, makes us forget the hectic pace of the outside world. It's no wonder that Solomon- David's son- compared the beauty and sweetness of love to "a cluster of henna in the vineyards of Ein Gedi."

Take Five at Ein Gedi
The Ein Gedi area is a great place to TAKE a vacation.
Here are five great activities that will TAKE your breath away.
TAKE a dip in Yam Hamelah, the Dead Sea. There’s so much salt in the water, you can’t sink—but you’ll stink!
TAKE a mud bath at the shores of Yam Hamelah. Your body will tingle from all those sticky, icky minerals.
TAKE a tour of the remains of an ancient synagogue and find out about the “curse” of Ein Gedi.
TAKE a hike in Nahal David. Treat yourself to:
great views of Yam Hamelah, sweet spring water, and the coolest waterfalls in Israel.
TAKE a rope and leap off a cliff. With a guide from Kibbutz Mitzpe Shalem, you can rappel in the wilderness.